Rediscovering Atlanta

I have been to Atlanta, Georgia before, but this was different! Twice I came here to participate in American College of Cardiology meetings – the biggest meeting in the world of Cardiology, attended by forty thousand people from all around the world. And the top-notch scientists present the latest research conducted in various fields of heart diseases. But this visit was different – this was to catch on with my son, now doing his electives in Emory University hospital in Atlanta.

Tucked on the side of a busy large road is an island of peace and tranquility -surrounded by lofty trees called Emory Oaks Way apartment complex. The approach is from a side road and the only noise that is audible in the morning is of the gleeful chirping of birds. And this was the place where I was supposed to stay for three days in Dr Tanvir Rab’s apartment. At the advent of spring quite a few trees wore white and pink blossoms. And there were many small trees in the process of transition - shedding blossoms and acquiring fresh green small leaves. Small and large roads traversing up and down the hills with nicely planned and meticulously manicured gardens on both sides painted multi hued scenario - most pleasing to the eyes and inspirational to the soul. Though Atlanta is not supposed to be a planned city, as it evolved into a mega city by merging different adjoining small localities during Olympics yet it is green, hilly and most enjoyable.

“Korieda Kabab and classical basmati rice cooked with resin, carrot, and almonds,” ordered our host Dr Tanvir Rab, as this was simply the best in the best Iranian restaurant in the town. The food was exquisite - balanced in spices, succulent and flavorsome and served promptly in style. The modest and down to earth Cardiologist serves on the faculty of Emory University - pioneer in the research of heart diseases. Most generous, gracious and distinguished physician borne with silver spoon but rears a heart that aches for the underprivileged. The food was enjoyable but more so the friendly ambience and the company. The drive back through rolling hills amid rich greenery in mild weather was a treat.

The underground train was filled to brim and almost everyone got down on the first stop from five points on the west line. As we got out of underground station in the evening, there were thousands of people heading to Phillips arena. It seemed as if everyone in the city had come to watch their favorite basketball team play in Atlanta. Very close to this lies the huge convention centre, which hosts mega events and meetings. Even in USA, Atlanta is one of the few cities that can host very large meetings. Next to the trio is world famous Coca Cola center and museum offering an insight into the history of the soft drink industry and taste of hundred plus brands that have been developed and marketed by this giant. Underwater world of Atlanta lies in the neighborhood; it takes pride in being the best and biggest in many contexts and attracts thousands of visitors - young and old.

Most hallmarks of Atlanta are close to the heart of city centre. The lofty CNN building, with tall Omni hotel on one side, has been conceived as a unique structure serving multiple purposes. It houses the headquarters of world famous and trendsetter CNN hierarchy and boasts of the tallest elevator in the world. They conduct tours and take visitors to studios and offer guidance on how the intricate well knit system of information and disinformation works. It has a huge food court with scores of vendors offering different varieties of food to satisfy the taste buds of people from different cultures and nationalities. We enjoyed a sumptuous meal while enjoying CNN being displayed on a giant screen. Outside, there are many designers’ shops attracting the onlookers.

The setting was modest in ‘Lukma restaurant’ but the Pakistani cuisine was rich in spices and taste. The extravagant order by our generous host Dr Khusro Niazi was more than what could be consumed by four adults. The food arrived almost immediately - warm and fresh. Lamb and chicken tikka was delicious and haleem reminded of authentic haleem served in Karachi Haleem centre. The freshly baked bread was warm and tender. The food had de-javu effect and reminded us of back home restaurants. Dr Khusrao, an interventional Cardiologist and director of Peripheral Angiography program was most patient while my son and I wandered through different stores in one of the biggest mall of Atlanta called Lenoxhill Mall.

Three days spent in Atlanta were indeed a treat to mind and heart. It was a unique feeling as I was visiting the place because of my son. The only relationship between Atlanta and me was my son. Though I attended Cardiac Catheterization sessions watching new techniques and visited Echocardiography laboratory in Emory University, yet this became possible due to my son’s elective in the university hospital. The transition between when everything revolved about ‘me’ to ‘my son’ was very different but joyful. Though this journey entailed learning of new techniques and procedures but it was more about learning new perspectives to the old relationship. Suddenly the world was different – it revolved around my son, the Sun dawned from a different direction and followed an unusual course as I visualized the world from a different standpoint.

Strange are the ways of life – the only constant thing in life is change and transition.

Osama raid sparks rare criticism

PESHAWAR: Outraged countrymen have stepped up calls for top government officials to resign following the daring American helicopter raid that killed Osama bin Laden and embarrassed the nation.

Some of sharpest language was directed at the army and intelligence chiefs, a rare challenge to arguably the two most powerful men in the country, who are more accustomed to being feared than publicly criticised.

Pak army has said it had no idea that bin Laden was hiding for up to six years in Abbottabad.

The claim has met with skepticism from US officials, who have repeatedly criticised the country for failing to crack down on militants.

But with anti-American sentiments already high in South Asian nation, many citizens were more incensed by the fact that military was powerless to stop American raid.

Some lawmakers and analysts expressed hope that civilian leaders can seize on this anger to chip away at military's power, but others doubt that even an embarrassment of this scale will shake the status quo.

"It was an attack on our soil, and the army was sleeping," said Zafar Iqbal, a 61-year-old retired bureaucrat.

He singled out the leaders of Pak army, air force and the main intelligence organisation - Gen Ashfaq Parvez Kayani, Air Chief Marshal Rao Qamar Suleman and Gen Ahmed Shuja Pasha - saying they all should be forced to resign.

"All three of these men have brought insult to us, and they deserve all the punishment," said Iqbal.

The direct criticism of Kayani and Pasha was particularly striking because the two men enjoy a vaunted status in the country due to their role in protecting the country from external threats, especially archenemy India.

Some also feared that bad mouthing the shadowy spy agency, known as the Inter-Services Intelligence agency, could cause trouble and possibly even harm.

Kayani has also had strong backing from US and other NATO countries, which have sought to enlist his help in battling militants along with Afghanistan border.

It is unclear whether anyone will actually be forced to step down. The government is viewed by many as totally unresponsive to the numerous woes plaguing the nation, from a struggling economy to frequent terrorist attacks.

The military also denied reports that ISI chief, Pasha, planned to resign in the wake of bin Laden raid.

US Navy SEALs swooped into Abbottabad by helicopter before dawn Monday, killed bin Laden and were on their way back to Afghanistan before the army could respond. The army has said it had no prior knowledge of the operation - a claim backed up by US.

"No one other than ISI and army chiefs are responsible for this disgrace of American attacks on our homeland," said Jaffar Ali, a banker. "It is a complete failure of our security."

In contrast, former foreign minister Shah Mehmood Qureshi, fixed the blame squarely on President Asif Ali Zardari and Prime Minister Yousuf Raza Gillani - likely motivated in part by past conflict with the two men.

"This is a great violation of our sovereignty, but it is for the president and prime minister to resign and no one else," Qureshi told reporters on Saturday.

The opposition leader in parliament, Chaudhry Nisar Ali Khan, took a less selective approach. He said anyone from Zardari on down who can be faulted for what happened in Abbottabad should resign.

"This is a call coming from every street of Pakistan," Chaudhry Nisar Khan told reporters.

Qureshi, said parliament should conduct a thorough inquiry into the raid.

Ayesha Siddiqa, a defence analyst, said the civilian government should broaden its focus and seize the opportunity to conduct a comprehensive assessment of the country's military and intelligence agencies - a process that could reign in the amount of money they receive and reduce their power over politics.

"I don't want something that just looks at where they went wrong this particular time," said Siddiqa. "It should go beyond this one event."

Others held out little hope that civilian leaders have the skill and authority to take on the army, irrespective of the ripples from bin Laden raid. Many of them are viewed as corrupt and only looking out for their own self-interest.

"Can we fix ourselves? Take a look around. Does anyone think Asif Zardari has what it takes?" Cyril Almeida wrote in an editorial in a English-daily.

Zardari and Gillani met with head Kayani, and other senior officials in Islamabad on Saturday to discuss bin Laden raid, said the prime minister's office. Gillani plans to brief parliament about the raid today.

It is unclear where bin Laden was located before he moved to Abbottabad. Residents of Chak Shah Mohammad, a sparsely populated village close to Abbottabad, denied a report in New York Times Saturday that bin Laden had lived there for two and a half years with his family before moving to Abbottabad.

"I don't think the kind of people you and the intelligence agencies are looking for are here or have ever lived here," said Mohammad Shazad Awan, a former army soldier who has driven a public minibus in the area for the last 12 years.

But residents of Abbottabad were also not aware that bin Laden had been living there for such a long time.

Awan, who said he works on the side as an informant for the government, said many Pakistani intelligence operatives were in Chak Shah Mohammad on Friday asking whether bin Laden had lived there.

A senior intelligence official said he could neither confirm nor deny the report, which cited information from one of bin Laden's three wives who were detained after the raid. He spoke on condition of anonymity in line with the agency's policy. - AP